Its No Popularity Contest, Smokey Eye Makeup Wins Hands Down…
Rule No. 1: A smokey eye makeup is not only for the Kardashians of this world, a smokey eye makeup can suit ANYONE at ANY TIME OF THE DAY. The difference is knowing how to apply it as a day time makeup say for work and how to liven it up for an evening makeup or special occasion.
Rule No. 2: Smokey eye makeup can be created using any colours, not just black. All you need are lighter and darker colours. An example of this can be using Monochromatic colours; tints, tones, and shades of a single hue or similar hues. Another example is using Complimentary colours; opposite colours like black, white and brown or blue and Terracotta.
The Glamour & The Wash
What you will need:
- At least 2-3 eyeshadow colours of different depths and shades either monochromatic or complimentary.
- Eyeshadow brushes to apply and blend. To see what eyeshadow you need please Click Here. Remember to use what you have, if you have something similar and it does the job then use it, eyeshadow brushes do not have to be expensive for them to work properly.
- Eyeshadow primer or eyeshadow base. To see what eyeshadow primers and eyeshadow bases I recommend and how to apply them Click Here.
- Concealer, preferably a light weight concealer such as MAC Select Mositure Concealer ($$$) or NYX Concealer Wand ($)
Colour Wash Smokey Eye…
is when the madjority of the eyelids are covered in 1 main colour and you use another 1-2 colours to blend it in the edges and to also highlight. This way of applying smokey eye makeup suits most people, however if you have less visible crease line you may have to finish the main colour just above where the crease line should be. In the picture to the right there are 3 basic colours, the Transition colour ( the brown colour that falls in between the natural skin colour and the black) the white highlight colour (used under the brow and on the tear duct) and of course the black. |
- Apply you eyeshadow primer first. If you are using a dark colour like black or grey just like the pictures above, then it would be better to apply a darker primer or base that closely matches the main colour and apply it on the eyelid up to the crease line only, that way you do not affect the depth and intensity of the main colour.
- Next apply the black/dark eyeshadow on the lid, some people like to use a pencil such as MAC Khol Pencil and colour the entire lid with it first followed by the eyeshadow. Bring the black up to the natural crease line. Using a clean blending brush, blend the outer edges of where the black stops so that it becomes a gradual transition between the black and skin colour. Blend the black upwards and outwards.
- Using a clean brush, apply the brown transition colour above the black. Ensure this is very lightly done, as the main purpose of this colour is to graduate a gradual transition between the black and your natural skin colour. Make sure you blend this well.
- Where ever there are bits of eyeshadow that look out of place, go over these with a cotton tip. Your cotton tip acts like an eraser.
- To blend the edges of both the black and the transition colour and to soften everything up, use a tiny bit of concealer and a clean fluffy blending brush and use this as eyeshadow eraser to blend back any excess eyeshadow.
- Finally using a white highlighter colour, either matt or shimmery, highlight on the tear duct and under the brow bone. Be sure to finish with eyeliner and a set of false lashes.
Glamour Smokey Eye…
is another way of applying a smokey eye that suits just about everyone, and especially those who do not have a crease line, as you get to create one. The main difference between the Glamour Smokey Eye and the Colour Wash Smokey Eye is that you apply a lighter colour to most of the eyelid, instead of a darker colour as it is in the Colour Wash. Also the transition from light to dark is from side to side in the Glamour eye, rather than down to up as it is in the Colour Wash. On the right is a picture of the basic Glamour smokey eye eyeshadow positioning. Notice how the lighter colours fall in the centre of the face with the darker colours on the outside (side to side transition). A true Glamour eye has a dark crease line at the top. You will need at least 3-4 colours for this look; a darker, medium and highlight.
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- Apply your eyeshadow primer or base, feel free to use a lighter one or a skin tone one as the main colour on the eyelid will be a lighter colour.
- Next apply the medium colour on the outter corner of the eye, use a small brush for this. Create a sideways V shape, with the top V Arm extending to the Crease line and the bottom shorter V Arm extending to the corner of the eye. Start by drawing the V and then blend it until it softens.
- To deepen this look draw another V using your darkest colour, this time make it a smaller V. Both Arms of this V are short and you are NOT blending this into the Crease. Use some of this colour and apply it to the Lower Lash Line (under your bottom lashes) to frame the entire eye.
- Apply the main base colour, a colour that is lighter than the Crease line but darker than your highlight colour, apply it to the eyelid only. In the examples below, this colour is either natural skin colour or a gold colour. Use a clean brush to blend the outer corners.
- Apply the lightest colour, a shimmery or matt highlighter to the tear duct and under the brow bone. Finish off with eyeliner and a set of false lashes
If there is anything you have learnt while reading this post is that you should play around with your eyeshadows, practice and try new things. What I have briefly explained is the absolute basics to what you can do when it comes to DIY smokey eye makeup. The more you experiment and practice the more confident you will become and the more you will learn what suits you and what you like.
Please feel free to leave a comment below or contact me direct for any questions.
Thank you for reading! 🙂
Alondra For Makeup
Perth’s best makeup and beauty guru, with over 20 years in the industry.